Day 12 - Burgos

The next morning was mist, and lots of it. Visibility was at times less than 30 feet or so. It was a long, cold, misty, and rainy walk. After a few hours I came across Peter and Morag. We chatted…

Day 13 - Hontanas

Left Burgos in the rain. It kept up for most of the day. Fortunately, I had my new poncho. I walked steady for 9 km to Taradajos. Occasionally, I could see Keith’s yellow slicker in the distance moving quickly and…

From the Home Front -  Hontanas

Michael called to say he had made it to Hontanas. He should be in Leon within six days, and since the terrain is fairly flat here, his old man knees shouldn’t give him trouble. He’s hoping to take a rest…

From the Home Front - Fromista

Michael called to say there is no internet access until probably Leon. It’s also been “#%@*ing raining for the entire day”. Right now he’s in a small town that was the bread basket of the Western Roman Empire: Fromista. Shin…

Day 14 - Fromista

I left Hontanas in the rain. This is becoming so familiar. Slog, slog, slog. Too bad about the rain as it was a lovely walk, but I had to keep the camera packed to protect it. The walk to Castrojériz…

Day 15 - Sahagun

Morning: Well, it is morning in Fromista and I’m not walking today. I left the pensione early in order to catch the train. Seeing people start the trail this morning while I was stuck taking the train bothered me a…

Day 16 - Sahagun - Rest Day

Last night was somewhat strange. Late night Spanish television is bizarre, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. It is filled with call-in money games and bad adventure movies with women in tank tops, and a more than fair share of…

Rest Days & Travel Groups

I have just finished up spending two nights in Sahagun. I´m travelling by train this morning to El Burgo Ranero (a ten-minute train ride) where I will overnight , then I´m on to Leon to spend two nights. This will…

Day 17 - Mansilla de las Mulas

Well, I made it easily to El Burgo Ranero. The rail system in Spain is wonderfully on time and cheap. However, the town turned out to be over a kilometre from the train station. I was worried that it would…

Day 18 – León

The Camino does what the Camino does. As I was waiting for the bus to take me to León this morning, in walked Peter and Morag. Morag´s ankle is starting to get inflamed so they decided it would be best…

Day 19 – León – Rest Day

It was a cool morning with grey clouds and some light drizzle that made the cobblestone streets slick. Keith and I started with breakfast in a nice café by the Cathedral. We sat in the warmth of the café by…

Day 20 – Hosptial de Orbigo

I did 29 km today. My ankle swelled up a bit a but I found that if I changed my stride a bit the pain diminished quite a bit. I left León a bit before Keith. But he, of course,…

Day 21 – Murais de Rechivaldo

I had a decent sleep last night. However, when I went to the bathroom this morning I forgot to take my satchel with me. Someone took the opportunity to steal 50 euros, my photos, and some papers from me. Bastard….

Day 22 – Foncebedon

Had breakfast in the albergue, which was nice enough with plenty of toast and preserves, but the cafe con leche was barely average. Ah well. I left Murais de Rechivaldo in the rain with Keith, Peter, and Morag. Shortly after…

Day 23 – Ponferrada

It was a very cold, 1-degree-Celsius morning in Foncebadon. The sky was stained a dark navy blue and it was raining lightly, while a thick fog flowed through the hills. I joined Peter, Morag, and Keith for a morning coffee…

Day 24 - Pereje

I woke this morning amazed that I didn’t fall to the concrete below. Sleep didn’t come easy as I was really concerned that I would move more than a few inches and tumble down. The bunks really are narrow in…

Day 25 - O Cebreiro

I slept well last night but I woke up with a bit of a head cold. Thankfully, I was able to shake it off through the day. We had a simple breakfast in the albergue that consisted of the standard…

O Cebreiro

Michael called me today from O Cebreiro – he walked over and up the hills without a twinge to his knees. There’s very few phones or internet sources. The last couple calls have been made over his companions’ phones –…

Day 26 - Samos

We left O Cebreiro in the mist, lots of it. It was very difficult to see. But I have to admit, I like mist so I thought it was lovely evocative walk. The long winding trails lead up and down…

Samos

Michael called yesterday to say there’s no internet. Apparently every town he’s been in for the last few stops, the internet has been down – karma’s so much fun… He’s stayed at a medieval monastery – I could hear the…

Day 27 - Portomarin

We are hoping to put in 30 or so km today and end up in Portomarin. Today Keith, Morag, Peter, and I set out at bit late at 7 am. We stopped for café con leche and croissants and then…

Spanish Notes

A few notes about Spain. Bathrooms in public places often do not have toilet paper, nor soap in the dispenser, nor towels (or the dryer does not work). The lights are on timers so they can turn off at inconvenient…

Day 28 - Palas de Rei

The walk today, although not spectacular visually was pleasant. After yesterday’s never-ending walk, the 25 km we did today was refreshing. We even made it to the albergue before the rain started! Bonus! The walk itself leads through a series…

The Embroiderer

While walking to Hontanas, I looked back to see a figure walking towards me wrapped from head to toe. The only thing showing were the eyes. It was a strange sight but I had walking to do of my own, so…

Day 29 - Arzua

Morag, Peter, Keith, and I had breakfast in the albergue hall as it is Sunday and most places are closed. Then we headed off and were out the door before 7 am. The walking was fine, and mist once again…