Leaving on a jet plane...

Leaving on a jet plane…

Well, no kicking and screaming, or crying, or nervous shakes – Michael’s on the plane. He has my lady for luck, and hugs and kisses from me and the boys. We will miss him so, but I hope the Camino…

Montreal

Montreal

I’m sitting in an airport restaurant drinking a ten-dollar Heineken waiting for a meal. My head is still stuffed with constant noise from the flight from Winnipeg. Too much sensory input, I think. I was stuck beside a fairly hirsute…

Paris to Orly

Paris to Orly

Although I did get the chance to see Juno and the Last Samurai on the flight from Montreal to Paris, I didn’t sleep… I am so tired, the best I can do is a series of observations: There are a lot of…

Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port

Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port

I sat in Orly for bit and watched the other travellers until my plan boarded. The flight from Paris to Biarritz was nice and short, thankfully as there were a lot of unhappy children on the plane. The food on…

Day 1 - Roncesvalles

Day 1 – Roncesvalles

I’m sitting at a hilltop restaurant in Roncesvalles having a beer. I feel clean and refreshed for the first time in what seems a long time, although the line up for a shower was an hour long. Today’s walk started…

Day 2 - Zubiri

Day 2 – Zubiri

I left Roncesvalles on a dark misty morning. It was mostly cloudy, a little cool, and rained just a little bit today. It was lovely. I soon came across Burguete, the town that Hemingway loved so much. I had my…

Day 3 - Pamplona

Day 3 – Pamplona

Walked with Mette for a fair bit today and we had several wide-ranging conversations covering everything under the sun. She introduced me to a German woman named Danny who is carrying a huge pack almost bigger than herself. Wow! However,…

Day 4 - Puente la Reina

Day 4 – Puente la Reina

I had no sleep last night as every little movement caused my knees to flare in pain. The left knee is swollen and bluish, the right is just swollen. This morning I gave one of my clay shells to Mette…

Lovely Cirauqui

Day 5 – Estella

It was a nice day of walking, my knees were just twinging on the inclines and the birds were singing. In the first half of the walk I chanced upon Anne and Mo. They were having some problems with over…

Day 6 - Los Arcos

Day 6 – Los Arcos

Off to Los Arcos. A wonderful day! My knees barely bothered me and the weather was grand! On the way I encountered Camino John. John is a retired Englishman who, since he retired eight years ago, spends April to October…

Day 7 - Logroño

Day 7 – Logroño

I left Los Arcos in the early morning. It was still dark in the streets and the sky was a wonderful dark blue. As I was walking over the bridge, the bells of the cathedral rang out behind me. It…

Day 8 - Najera

Day 8 – Najera

I had a good, yet hard,  time of it today; 30 km in 6 hours. Not too bad. I left Logroño at 5:45 this morning. My roommates from last night (Danny, Mette, and Birgit) were a bit surprised by how…

Day 9 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Day 9 – Santo Domingo de la Calzada

This morning Anne checked my feet again (she rocks), and I headed out for Santo Domingo de la Calzada (a chicken was resurrected here). The sky was grey the entire day and I had to pack well with all my…

Day 10 - Belorado

Day 10 – Belorado

Only did another 22 km today, and I took a nice eight hours to do it in. These gave me an opportunity to rest and air my blisters often. It was worth it. I traveled with Anne and Mo for…

Day 11 - Atapuerca

Day 11 – Atapuerca

I’m sitting in Atapuerca in the main kitchen. I was to be in a semi-private area, but I was uncomfortable sharing a room with a woman. I’ve been in a room with several women, but that just meant that there…

Day 12 - Burgos

Day 12 – Burgos

The next morning was mist, and lots of it. Visibility was at times less than 30 feet or so. It was a long, cold, misty, and rainy walk. After a few hours I came across Peter and Morag. We chatted…

Day 13 - Hontanas

Day 13 – Hontanas

Left Burgos in the rain. It kept up for most of the day. Fortunately, I had my new poncho. I walked steady for 9 km to Taradajos. Occasionally, I could see Keith’s yellow slicker in the distance moving quickly and…

From the Home Front -  Hontanas

From the Home Front – Hontanas

Michael called to say he had made it to Hontanas. He should be in Leon within six days, and since the terrain is fairly flat here, his old man knees shouldn’t give him trouble. He’s hoping to take a rest…

From the Home Front - Fromista

From the Home Front – Fromista

Michael called to say there is no internet access until probably Leon. It’s also been “#%@*ing raining for the entire day”. Right now he’s in a small town that was the bread basket of the Western Roman Empire: Fromista. Shin…

Day 14 - Fromista

Day 14 – Fromista

I left Hontanas in the rain. This is becoming so familiar. Slog, slog, slog. Too bad about the rain as it was a lovely walk, but I had to keep the camera packed to protect it. The walk to Castrojériz…

Day 15 - Sahagun

Day 15 – Sahagun

Morning: Well, it is morning in Fromista and I’m not walking today. I left the pensione early in order to catch the train. Seeing people start the trail this morning while I was stuck taking the train bothered me a…

Day 16 - Sahagun - Rest Day

Day 16 – Sahagun – Rest Day

Last night was somewhat strange. Late night Spanish television is bizarre, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. It is filled with call-in money games and bad adventure movies with women in tank tops, and a more than fair share of…

Rest Days & Travel Groups

Rest Days & Travel Groups

I have just finished up spending two nights in Sahagun. I´m travelling by train this morning to El Burgo Ranero (a ten-minute train ride) where I will overnight , then I´m on to Leon to spend two nights. This will…

Day 17 - Mansilla de las Mulas

Day 17 – Mansilla de las Mulas

Well, I made it easily to El Burgo Ranero. The rail system in Spain is wonderfully on time and cheap. However, the town turned out to be over a kilometre from the train station. I was worried that it would…

Day 18 – León

Day 18 – León

The Camino does what the Camino does. As I was waiting for the bus to take me to León this morning, in walked Peter and Morag. Morag´s ankle is starting to get inflamed so they decided it would be best…