Day 14 - Fromista

Day 14 – Fromista

I left Hontanas in the rain. This is becoming so familiar. Slog, slog, slog. Too bad about the rain as it was a lovely walk, but I had to keep the camera packed to protect it. The walk to Castrojériz…

Day 15 - Sahagun

Day 15 – Sahagun

Morning: Well, it is morning in Fromista and I’m not walking today. I left the pensione early in order to catch the train. Seeing people start the trail this morning while I was stuck taking the train bothered me a…

Day 16 - Sahagun - Rest Day

Day 16 – Sahagun – Rest Day

Last night was somewhat strange. Late night Spanish television is bizarre, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. It is filled with call-in money games and bad adventure movies with women in tank tops, and a more than fair share of…

Rest Days & Travel Groups

Rest Days & Travel Groups

I have just finished up spending two nights in Sahagun. I´m travelling by train this morning to El Burgo Ranero (a ten-minute train ride) where I will overnight , then I´m on to Leon to spend two nights. This will…

Day 17 - Mansilla de las Mulas

Day 17 – Mansilla de las Mulas

Well, I made it easily to El Burgo Ranero. The rail system in Spain is wonderfully on time and cheap. However, the town turned out to be over a kilometre from the train station. I was worried that it would…

Day 18 – León

Day 18 – León

The Camino does what the Camino does. As I was waiting for the bus to take me to León this morning, in walked Peter and Morag. Morag´s ankle is starting to get inflamed so they decided it would be best…

Day 19 – León – Rest Day

Day 19 – León – Rest Day

It was a cool morning with grey clouds and some light drizzle that made the cobblestone streets slick. Keith and I started with breakfast in a nice café by the Cathedral. We sat in the warmth of the café by…

Day 21 – Murais de Rechivaldo

Day 21 – Murais de Rechivaldo

I had a decent sleep last night. However, when I went to the bathroom this morning I forgot to take my satchel with me. Someone took the opportunity to steal 50 euros, my photos, and some papers from me. Bastard….

Day 22 – Foncebedon

Day 22 – Foncebedon

Had breakfast in the albergue, which was nice enough with plenty of toast and preserves, but the cafe con leche was barely average. Ah well. I left Murais de Rechivaldo in the rain with Keith, Peter, and Morag. Shortly after…

Day 23 – Ponferrada

Day 23 – Ponferrada

It was a very cold, 1-degree-Celsius morning in Foncebadon. The sky was stained a dark navy blue and it was raining lightly, while a thick fog flowed through the hills. I joined Peter, Morag, and Keith for a morning coffee…

Day 24 - Pereje

Day 24 – Pereje

I woke this morning amazed that I didn’t fall to the concrete below. Sleep didn’t come easy as I was really concerned that I would move more than a few inches and tumble down. The bunks really are narrow in…

Day 25 - O Cebreiro

Day 25 – O Cebreiro

I slept well last night but I woke up with a bit of a head cold. Thankfully, I was able to shake it off through the day. We had a simple breakfast in the albergue that consisted of the standard…

Day 26 - Samos

Day 26 – Samos

We left O Cebreiro in the mist, lots of it. It was very difficult to see. But I have to admit, I like mist so I thought it was lovely evocative walk. The long winding trails lead up and down…

Day 27 - Portomarin

Day 27 – Portomarin

We are hoping to put in 30 or so km today and end up in Portomarin. Today Keith, Morag, Peter, and I set out at bit late at 7 am. We stopped for café con leche and croissants and then…

Spanish Notes

Spanish Notes

A few notes about Spain. Bathrooms in public places often do not have toilet paper, nor soap in the dispenser, nor towels (or the dryer does not work). The lights are on timers so they can turn off at inconvenient…

Day 28 - Palas de Rei

Day 28 – Palas de Rei

The walk today, although not spectacular visually was pleasant. After yesterday’s never-ending walk, the 25 km we did today was refreshing. We even made it to the albergue before the rain started! Bonus! The walk itself leads through a series…

The Embroiderer

The Embroiderer

While walking to Hontanas, I looked back to see a figure walking towards me wrapped from head to toe. The only thing showing were the eyes. It was a strange sight but I had walking to do of my own, so…

Day 29 - Arzua

Day 29 – Arzua

Morag, Peter, Keith, and I had breakfast in the albergue hall as it is Sunday and most places are closed. Then we headed off and were out the door before 7 am. The walking was fine, and mist once again…

Day 30 - Arca

Day 30 – Arca

I am sitting in cold rainy Arca now… The day started a little bit later than normal, as we had only to complete 20 km today. So, we slept in until 6:30, packed up, and stayed in a café drinking…

Day 31 - Santiago de Compestella

Day 31 – Santiago de Compestella

I did it. We left Arca late this morning (late for the Camino that is) at about 7:30 or so. Things started badly as after about a kilometre on the road I noticed that I had left my satchel somewhere….

The Couple in Belorado

The Couple in Belorado

I thought people might be interested in this story. Keith and Kim both walk at a fast pace, they can´t seem to help it. This placed them in towns before most other walkers. When they arrived at Belorado, they were…

Day 32 - Bittersweet

Day 32 – Bittersweet

I attended noon mass today. It was an exhausting event. I´m not sure why exactly, but fellow pilgrims have reported the same feeling. We went our own ways for the afternoon and I walked the streets of Santiago, looking at…

Day 33 - Finisterre

Day 33 – Finisterre

I have just arrived back in Santiago from Finisterre. I took the early bus to Finisterre. The bus wove up and down along the route up the coast to Cee. It then moved across the little mini-peninsula to Finisterre. The…

Madrid

Michael: I will never again take a nine-hour overnight train without getting a berth. Peter warned me, but I wanted to save a few Euros. I figured how bad could it be. Well, the overnight trains from Santiago to Madrid…

On to Granada

I woke up this morning in a dark Madrid hotel. I washed and gathered my gear as quietly as I could, gave Sandy and the kids hugs and kisses, and headed out into pre-dawn Madrid. The sky was an amazing…