Day 29 – Arzua
The walking was fine, and mist once again clung to the fields. The sky was clear though and when the sun hit the fields you could see mist rise from the soil. I stopped in a beautiful little town in an albergue call Albergue Abrigadoiro that has a café in front. It had a nice little dog hanging around front that I played with for a few minutes before I went in for a café con leche.
I sat at the counter for my first coffee as the place was packed tight. It was very nice inside though; countryish and eclectic. Peter and Morag showed up as a room became available at a long table to we sat down to share some more café con leche and some food; very nice tortilla. Keith was by now several towns ahead of us. On the way out I played with the dog a little more before I set off again.
We made Melide in good time, just before 11:00 and we stopped at a Greek diner to have burgers for the protein and I added a Kit Kat for energy (BTW: Kit Kats are big in Spain). As we walked through the rest of the town we saw a bar with two huge cauldrons over fires with massive pulpo (octopus) in broth. Melide is famous for its pulpo, but 11:00 is a bit too early in my books. I searched for Lithium and was thwarted. I did find some, but the line up in the photo shop was just too long so I had to move on.
There was a street market happening and the streets were busy. I had to really look for the Camino shells and hope that I did not get lost. Luckily I didn’t make any wrong turns and I met up with Peter and Morag at the edge of town. On we went.
The afternoon walk felt a bit longer than it actually was, I think we were worried about getting a bed in the albergue and the rain clouds gathering… While taking a short break, Morag and Peter both noticed that their hiking shoes were now shot with holes and think that they will just last to Santiago.
I moved on as I was tired of walking and decided that the best way to make it stop was to get to Arzua. I made good time and I ended up getting here at about 2:00 pm. Keith had set us up at a Red Alburgue (sort of a federation of private, good quality albergues) and I settled in. I joined Keith for a beer while we waited for Peter and Morag.
We all washed up and lay about for a while. I started up some laundry, e-mailed back and forth with Sandy for a little while, and then I decided I needed to hear her voice. So I took some more painkillers, tended my feet, and set off in search of a payphone. I headed down the street, which was rather like a downtown business area of a smaller town. Shortly another street veered of from the main street I was on, I followed this arm as it looked less business orientated and I thought it might contain some nice places to eat later. I came across a nice looking pizzeria/bar that looked promising. I headed back and found a phone along the way and gave Sandy a call. She made me laugh and I was feeling better.
I told the others about the restaurant and we headed out for dinner after the laundry was done. The pizza was really very good and we sampled some darker beers for a change of pace. The restaurant was amazingly smoky, which I’m getting used to but it was very much bothering my sore throat. So, after I ate and had some juice, I left some money with Morag to pay for my meal and I left them to wind down while I headed back to the albergue to rest. I found a small variety type of shop that sold batteries and I picked a up a few for my camera. The camera has been chewing through non-lithium batteries like they were nothing. It will need some repair when I get home.
I settled myself down in my sleeping bag to get rid of the chill of the cold and wet weather and listened to the small selection of songs I have on my little recorder. Once I was warmed up and rested up. I went in search of this computer.
This was the last longish day to Santiago. It was about 25 km. Tomorrow is only about 18 km and the day after is 20 km into the Santiago de Compestela. It is strange that it is getting so close, but I am looking forward to the closure and to seeing my family again.
I think I’ll go rest some more.
I stayed at: Albergue Don Quijote
Soundscape: Rain Water Running
Soundscape: Birds in the Rain