I had no sleep last night as every little movement caused my knees to flare in pain. The left knee is swollen and bluish, the right is just swollen. This morning I gave one of my clay shells to Mette to carry. She liked it when she saw it tied to my walking stick and I was unsure at that point whether I could continue all the way to Santiago. The pain almost got me to pack it all in. However, I called Sandy and she talked me down and propped me up. Onwards to Puente la Reina!

So I walked, painfully, on. During the fourth day the ibuprofen and the codeine were starting to work their magic and my swelling did go down some and the walking became easier.

Somehow I made it to Puente la Reina, much to the surprise of many people. Mette’s jaw latterly dropped. They thought I was going to get a hotel and see a doctor in Pamplona. However in my state I had been unable to accomplish it.

I can’t believe I made it.

I had an amazing pilgrim’s meal, some good company including Kim, Mette, Anne, Mo, and Rupert. I drank a lot of water as my body rebelled at the thought of drinking the wine. I said hello to Peter and Morag as well. I had not seen them since just outside of Zubiri. They seem to be doing well.

With the help of a variety of drugs and the first decent meal in a couple of days, I slept. Indeed, I slept in. When I woke up, the dormitory almost empty. Whoops!

Walked with Mette for a fair bit today and we had several wide ranging conversations covering everything under the sun. She introduced me to a German woman named Danny who is carrying a huge pack almost bigger than herself. Wow!

However, I screwed up today and I was not prepared. There was none of the expected stores or cafes along the way and I ended up with nothing but 12 dried apricots and water for the day; everything is closed. Perhaps it is a holiday. Not good. I’m going to have to watch that in the future. I only have a handful of dried apricots to get the 22 km to town. By the time I got to  Pamploma, I was a wreck, and confused. I didn’t get enough food and I slept poorly. Not my greatest moment.

It is almost 5 pm now and I’m famished and a bit light-headed. I even got lost a couple of times on the way here, but the Spanish people are very friendly and helpful. One woman who saw me going the wrong way yelled across a very busy street to get me going the right way. I didn’t even know I was lost at that point.

Still missing Sandy, the kids, and Max…

Long, long day today.

I left Roncesvalles on a misty dark morning. It rained just a little bit today. Mostly cloudy, and a little cool. It was lovely. Shortly I came across Burguete, the town that Hemingway loved so much. I had my first cafe con leche, and a warm chocolate pastry of some sort. Heaven!

For lunch I stopped in a village and had a bread and cheese roll with an Irishman named Jamie, and a fat dog.

But even though the terrain was wonderful, the day got worse for me as me knees steadily got worse. . It isn’t too bad when the trail is level, but any incline makes it hurt a lot. Every step was like slipping a needle into each knee and I started to wonder whether my Camino would end so quickly. Along the way I was encouraged by Morag and Peter as we passed each other along the trail. As well I met Mette (from Denmark) who kindly traveled with me several times and help keep my mind on things other than the pain. I walk slower than Rick with his cane at that point. At the end of a long day moving it took me almost an hour to travel the last 3/4 km to the final destination for the day, Zubiri.

At the Farmacia I was given ibuprofen (900mg three times per day) to use with my codeine. It took away some of the pain and swelling but not all. I also picked up some ear plugs, but with the pain I didn’t sleep well.

I had a nice supper in a local café where I met two ladies from Norway (for some reason their names escape me), a Danish gentleman named Kim, Anne, and Mo. Anne and Mo are Canadians from Ontario.

I also met two young Canadians. They are spending a year travelling the world and the Camino Is one part of that. The cool aspect is the lady was raised in Winnipeg.

Soundscape – Walking
Soundscape – Distant Bells

I’m sitting at a hilltop restaurant in Roncesvalles having a beer. I feel clean and refreshed for the first time in what seems a long time, although the line up for a shower was an hour long.

Today’s walk started off well. I was feeling good and I made it to Honto and had a rest it had been about 4 km and an elevation change of about +240 metres. I then worked myself up to Orrison (which has a great deck over hanging the side providing a great view of the mountains) at 650 metres. This was when the wind hit. It was a steady 30 km or so and gusted to about 60; all coming at me while I was trudging uphill. I had amazing windburn. Orrison is where I met Tim, an art student from Leeds. Originally from the States, he decided to walk the Camino to inspire him and to figure out where he was heading. I’ve seen him in most towns since then. He’s a decent sort.

When I got to about 900 metres above see level the trail took a sharp turn up and my left knee began to ache a lot. Too bad, there is nothing there, so on you go. I finally got to Roncesvalles after walking 25.5 km and climbing from 620 metres to 1442 metres, and then down to 960 metres. Tired? You bet.

I have already lost a piece of clothing. Somewhere along the way there is a nice new white t-shirt that I had strapped to my pack to dry.

I set myself up in the albergue, and 13th century church/storage area/and, apparently, at one point stables for Napoleon’s men. Had a shower, had some clothes washed (cool, the staff did for only 2€), and put a cold pack on my knee. A very kind Spanish man helped me ice it earlier and offered me some ibuprofen.

I also bought a staff as I figured I would need the help on the trail.

For supper I ended up at a table with Rupert from Oxford and two Australians who currently live just south of Paris, Morag and Peter. They study climate change, cool. Peter is blind and his wife Morag is leading him. I’m in awe. All three were great company and we had a nice pasta dish followed by a great trout (head included) with some chips. Also, a full bottle of wine and mineral water was included.

We walked out sated and tired, just in time to get back to the albergue and get ready for bed. I even slept most of the night.

I like the walking so far, but I am having trouble with some of the social aspects of the Camino. I’m not one to just begin a conversation with strangers.

I am missing Sandy so very much. It is like a physical plain. I have been separated from her for only three days, and I have been on trips for up to seven days in the past, but I think the distance is having its toll.

I’ve been trying to maintain my audio journal and I have taken a huge number of photos so far. I hope the photos are able to convey the scope of what I have seen, but I have my doubts. It may be that the vistas just have to be experienced in person.